by Don » Tue May 25, 2010 10:49 pm
Hey Dave,
It takes roughly 1 hr to 1 1/2 hrs to get to the parking. You get to a little past Arnprior and do 28km on the 508. The guide is pretty accurate in saying it's 2.3 km past Calabogie Peaks. There's a bit of a hidden parking on top of a hill ( you should usually see a car or two parked there). I'd say the hike is about 15 minutes on a trail (beware of ATVs) and then 5-10 minutes down a cliff (this trail can be particularity hard to find, but look left of the Eagles nest lookout and then right near some porcupine bark- stripped pines). The overall area consists of a U shape, with some good tall boulders scattered around the area. The concentration is rather impressive when comparing to Gatineau's spots.
There is definitely some potential beyond the guide, but most climbs seem to range in the V-medium, with a couple of v7s and v8s and a few open problems. As I stated, the V2-V4s I tried seemed a little soft to me.
Right now the bugs are ok (i went this Monday, so it was unusually warm thought). I could see it get worst though, as the area is near a lowland marsh.
The climbs are a little different than from Gatineau. Same type of rock, but definitely more jugs and large holds.
I timed myself last time coming back, and with no traffic, I made it from the parking to my place (close to downtown Ottawa) in just under 1 hr. Home cliff or 0+ usually took me 40+ minutes, so I don't mind the extra distance too much.