Contest - Win New England Guidebook

[daveh_cdn]

The best time of year has arrived. Cool temps and great weather for sending!

ottawaclimbing.com is announcing something new on the site - a contest . The winner of the contest will win a copy of the new second edition of the New England Bouldering guidebook by Tim Kemple. As an ottawa climber, this is a great guide. This new edition is slightly updated with content and cosmetically updated with new photos and diagrams.



The contest is really simple:
What is your favourite boulder problem in New England and why?
Just respond below with your answer and the best one will win. Epic send, amazing photo, big story? Feel free to edit your post until the deadline.

The deadline is two weeks away: September 10 2009.

[MAsk man]

Nobody wants that guide?
screw you guys, I want it!

Just didn't feel I had a chance. I've only been to Mackenzie pond, and my favorite is probably a toss-up between great roof of china and slabadon. Love the crimpy start and sketchy top-out of slabadon, and it was my first V5 (still the only V5). Love the rail and heel top-out of great roof of china, and it was my first V4!

Gimy!

[daveh_cdn]

You win for sure. First and last time I try to do something nice for everyone. You got yourself a brand new guidebook. I'll bring it to the gym - I'm sure I'll see you there soon.

[graham]

The best climb, hands down, by a long shot, is Thrust Fault V3 at Mackenzie Pond. This should not come as a surprise to anyone that I say this because I climb it every visit, and sell it to anyone that will listening. So ... why is it the best? Thrust Vault sits in the middle of the second last set of boulders at MP. It's a natural line that shoots straight up a slightly overhanging face, up to a respectable height; a borderline highball. Yeah! The first move involves a highstep and a left gaston that feels impossible until you get your body up. You then have to move up a vertical rail, requiring some balance and key foot placement. Reaching up left to a not-so-positive crimp, you gently place a right foot on a large-ish crappy crystal and (this is the best part) dynamically swing out right, locking off your left hand and thrusting ( wee! ) up to deadpoint a rounded hand-jug up on the lip. This move actually makes you feel like you are flying. I love it! A few people do this move static, but in my opinion it takes the fun out of it. Just when you think you are finished, you are treated to a topout that requiring attention. You are far above your (albeit good) landing, and you are required to get either a heel or a toe up to waist level to round up over the top. Make sure you have a spotter. It's heady! And the best part of this climb is that it's V3. All the fun I've described above is accessible to everyone.

I know I'm late - I don't really want the book. I just wanted to share.

Climb on!
g

[Pallek]

I'll have to agree with Graham that Thrust Fault is one of the best. I had a hard time with this problem, until I sent it (It gets easier if you know what you are in for). The first thing that popped into my mind from atop the problem post send was "Finally! Now I never have to get on this again". I was so wrong, as every time I pass by it I want to get on it again. That not so positive crimp doubles as a fairly crappy sloper, for those of you that prefer slopers to crimps

I'll also have to state that "Time Will Tell" is also one of the best. At V5, it has a little bit of everything. Dynamic start, technical middle, and grovelly top out. You throw for jugs, crimp on things that I wouldn't be able to hold if it wasn't for the best heel hook in the world and awesome funky thumb catch, and try to pace your feet high while not sliding off a big sloper, just hoping that you can stretch or huck your way to something positive to use to top out. Pure fun.

I figured that I wouldn't enter as 1) I already have a copy (the old one, but the content is close to the same), so wouldn't want to deprive anyone else of one, and 2) because New England is bigger than McKenzie Pond and Rumney. I was hoping to see some answers from further afield though. I'm so looking forward to Pawtuckaway. I just hope my work lets me book Friday off.

[patrick]

New England does not actually include New York state, so that excludes McKenzie Pond and the Gunks. I believe the only places I've climbed actually in New England are: Rumney (NH), Pawtuckaway (NH) and Smuggler's Notch (VT).

I've only climbed at Rumney once. Ditto for Pawtuckaway, and didn't get on much because of rain. That pretty much leaves Smuggler's Notch (aka Smuggs).

As some of you may know, I'm not the hugest fan of Smuggs. One problem I did enjoy, however, was The Impossible Problem (V7). I had wanted to get on that particular problem for years and finally managed to tick it off when there last fall - my first time back to Smuggs in several years. It turned out to be harder than I'd expected and is by far the best thing at Smuggs, IMO - at least that I've been on.

I didn't bother submitting anything before because I already have a copy of the guidebook and was hoping to leave it for somebody else to grab.

For MP, I'd have to say my favourite problem there, to date, is Flux Capacitor.

[dagibbs]

I've never bouldered in New England, so didn't have any problems to post. Heck, I've barely bouldered anywhere -- lots of gyms, but not much real rock. The Shrine, the Alps, and that's about it.

[Pallek]

After the Pawtuckaway trip, I'm going to have to put in a mention of Overlooked. Reasons 1) Bat Hang 2) Double Heel Hook 3) The local beta of high-step and knee-bar your forearm. This climb is a three ring circus. Dave got 2 no-hands "rests" on this problem (rests in quotes as there is one move separating the rests, and it's a frikken boulder problem).

[daveh_cdn]

Yeah. Overlooked and Ride the Lightning make everything else in the North East look bad.

[Jeffd]

OOOPS! Should have posted earlier...sorry Dave!

I totally agree with Pallek and Dave. Don't forget that V3 Storm Pockets. That place is really amazing