2010 goals

[JoeRoss]

Wondering if anyone has set some goals for this season? Not specifice routes/problems like a tick list but something a little more general.
One of mine is to have 100 different ascents >= 6c (5.11 or V5)

[drtyner]

I would like to learn to place gear and send some trad lines in the area.

[daveh_cdn]

Good thread here Joe. It seems like I have a lot of goals but when I try to list them it is hard to numerate them. This is a good exercise I guess.

** I hate to list it, but my #1 goal this season is to send Crazy Belly. I think I can do that pretty easily, especially now that there's less pressure.

** I had 3 goals in 2009, of which I only achieved 1.5:
a) One Arm Pullup (I could do 3 with my right and two with my left at my best. Prolly struggle with them now ACHIEVED
b) Front Lever. The jury is still out on this one as to whether I actually achieved this goal or not. One of my last attempts in 2009 was very very close, and I think Leanna and I may have agreed that I got it. I'll give it 0.5 achievement.
c) 1-5-9 campus board. I know I did 1-5-8 for sure, and I think once I may have done 1-5-8&1/2.

Now, in 2010, I realize that a) b) c) above are something that I need to continue to work on even after I get them successfully so that's what I'll be doing for the rest of my climbing career. I need to continue to work towards those goals even though I know that they won't make me a better climber. Just something I have to work on.

** Break 10,000 score on 8a.nu. Realistically I'll need to have climbed 2 V12, 6 V11, and 2 V10 before the beginning of November. Or one V12, 8 V11, and one V10. Or 10 V11s. There are a few ways I can do this. This would put me in the top 275 people of all time on 8a.nu and the top 19 Canadians who've chosen to use 8a.nu. Spray about 8a.nu all you want but it does motivate you.

As of right now I have 3 of the V11 and more than enough V10. That means either 2 V12 and 3 V11, or 1 V12 and 5 V11. I think I can send Crazy Belly V12 (yes, it's hard), Revolution V11 Pawtuckaway, Air Force One V11 home cliff, Karajo V11 gunks. That leaves me needing two more V11. If I make it to Squamish I can bag another one. The last one needs to be a surprise I guess? Maybe God Module in HP in the late fall? Who knows. Maybe Venus in Scorpio Gunks? I don't have any major trips planned so it'll be difficult to find those hard grades. Maybe I should try Jete du Canard?

[daveh_cdn]

One of mine is to have 100 different ascents >= 6c (5.11 or V5)

Joe, isn't 5.11 much easier for you than V5? Thoughts?

[JoeRoss]

Joe, isn't 5.11 much easier for you than V5? Thoughts?

Yeh it is easier, matching the difficulty of the grades wasnt that big of a priority for me. Its more of a measure of a few things i want to focus on this year which is getting to a lot of new crags, climbing as often as possible, onsighting and bouldering harder. Based on what i climbed last year 100 sends of 6c seemed like a good challenge.

I have a pyramid to 13a made up of basically all local (Gatineau Park) climbs to take care of the hard stuff....

Im also working on a front lever... can hold it with one leg bent at the knee so that foot touches the other knee, thier so intense...

[daveh_cdn]

Im also working on a front lever... can hold it with one leg bent at the knee so that foot touches the other knee, thier so intense...

How long are you holding that for Joe? Good work man!

[JoeRoss]

well i started tryign them less then 2 weeks ago and i couldnt hold that position longer then about half a second lol, just like hopping up and doign negatives basically... but ive been getting super fast improvements and can hold it now for abot 5-6 sec. usually do 10 sets holdign for 3-4 sec each.
I only feel it in my ribs, just below my chest, guess my lower abs are much stronger then the upper....

[daveh_cdn]

I only feel it in my ribs, just below my chest, guess my lower abs are much stronger then the upper....

Haha, we're the opposite. My upper abs are much stronger than my lower. I started doing Leg Lifts. At the start I couldn't do 3x10 reps but now I can already. Pretty good. Gotta keep it up.

[patrick]

I've lost all that stuff. I used to be able to do 3/2 one arms per side (l/r), hold a lever for about 8s and do 4 muscle-ups (hang from pullup bar and quickly pull yourself all the way up into a kinda mantle - elbows high - and press that out so that your hips are at the bar) in a row. For the first one or two muscle-ups, the motion was pretty fluid but then it got messy. Guess I should work on getting all that back.

The one NEW thing I want to work is planche push-ups (think of getting ready to do a dip on two parallel bars but then lean forward and bring your legs out straight behind you, so that your body is totally horizontal (hard!) and resting on your shoulders, then start doing push-ups while keeping your body horizontal (fucking hard!)). My shoulder definitely needs to heal up a LOT before I start working those again.

[daveh_cdn]

Keep in mind that stuff aint gonna make us stronger climbers.

Get back on the fingerboard.

[patrick]

Stupid feats of strength are always fun at parties.

[drtyner]

Keep in mind that stuff aint gonna make us stronger climbers.

Get back on the fingerboard.

However, it does speak to your over all conditioning which is a plus for climbing.