Home Cliff area

[louisrainville]

Brushed a slab yesterday! it is one of the first obvious line that you can see on the way up! there is 4 variation on that boulder. the cool thing about that boulder is that it's high so you really have to trust your feet at 12 feet up because you have another 6 feet to go... it probably 5.10 climbing on slab! vb or v0- I don't knowon the right side there is another problem which starts on a right hand undercling to move up and on to the slab.

right up the middle of the slab is v0- 5.10 ?
a little harder on the right and another line on the right with a variation.

check it out it is good!

[daveh_cdn]

Louis, what is the name and grade of this one?:
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 1135_n.jpg

[louisrainville]

Une pointe de Hueco dans Gatineau - v8 (do you think it is ok?)

[louisrainville]

That is 3rd ascent Dave! good job!

[daveh_cdn]

No idea. It is at least V7 difficulty. Not easier than that. Definately not V9 either.

So, it will generally be agreed upon to be either V7 or V8. More ascents please (Lee, Eric, Pat, Chris, Jo, Graham to name a few).

I like the line. The Hueco is really cool. I am trying to think of other climbs to compare it to. If it is V8 it wouldn't be on the hard end. It is easier than the Temple Problem, but Das has said many times that Temple Problem from the proper low start is V9.

[EricS]

Does someone want to show me where the problem is at?

Speaking of new developments, I've been going to O+ recently, looking for new stuff (or also all the other stuff you guys have been talking about).

In other O+ news (potentially not the thread for this),
Lee K. and myself had found this wicked line, totally gym style, with big moves... but we ended up breaking the monstrous undercling start!
So now the start is almost impossible, one move then you're on a good jugg rail to an easy/long throw (thanks to new beta from Lee K.), scary-ish top-out.
Potential is there for a high/scary traverse extension, but the top needs cleaning (which we've already started).

[daveh_cdn]

Does someone want to show me where the problem is at?

Jeff and I are going on Wednesday after work around 4:00

[louisrainville]

Some say it's the best bouldering in Ottawa!

[EricS]

I say O+ and Home Cliff probably have the best problems in the Ottawa regions for sure!

[daveh_cdn]

I did a new V6-ish climb at Home Boulders today. No idea how hard it is.

It is on the big highball slab to the right of Koko. Just look for a big slab down and right from the rest of the main boulders and you should find it.

The climb is called Ladybug, it is about V6, not sure, and it is on the creek side of that boulder.

You start with slopey feet, left hand on sidepull and right hand in an undercling. Bump the left hand up from it to a slopey crimp, lean left and then snatch the vertical sidepull / awesome crimp. From there, move the feet up (left into the left start hold) and go up to the jug at the top on the arete. Top out.

Pretty cool little problem.

[Don]

Added a new climb this weekend to the left of Pointe de Hueco. Some variation might of been sent in the past.

Start on the obvious holds, face high on the corner and a good sidepull. Pull up and left to the pinch on the next corner. Move around and go for the nice jug high up. Find the microcrimp on the topout and burl up.

Calling it Triceptatops V3ish.

EDIT: Marc (aka the guy at the gym with the mask) sent it today. He found my grade sandbad. So it's up to someone to prove him wrong and crush his spirits!

[JoeRoss]

Did a cool one move problem today just left of breakfast of champions. SDS right hand crimpy sidepull, left hand bad sidepull, decent left foot, right foot smear. Look up and giver one big move to the rail.

For a one mover its fun... there was no chalk whatsoever on it, anyone else climb this before? if not, the sound of one hand clapping V4

[Don]

Hey Joe, where are both those climbs?

[JoeRoss]

they both start in the corridor underneath the big overhanging boulder, where that easy warm up traverse is. Near the right side as you look at the warm up traverse. Breakfast of champions the the V6ish problem that starts on the super chalked up edges and goes up a couple moves then traverses right around the arrete onto the slab and tops out.

[Don]

Hmm, to the right of the big 45° quartzite face huh? I'd take a look at it, but I think tomorrow's 20cm of snow might be a step back.


Thanks for the info.

[daveh_cdn]

Don, I think he is talking about the other boulder across from it.